Muttersmoor

Have you ever stood in a wild landscape and felt the presence of stories just beneath the surface? There are places where the wind whistling through the gorse seems to carry whispers of the past, where every ancient track and standing stone holds a secret. These are landscapes shaped not just by geology, but by millennia of human life, struggle, and ritual.

Muttersmoor is one of these extraordinary places. Situated on a high ridge overlooking Sidmouth and the Otter Valley, it is a sweep of lowland heath that burns with colour and echoes with birdsong. But this vibrant natural haven also holds a dramatic history of notorious smugglers, ancient peoples, and wartime defence. It’s a landscape where nature and human narrative are woven together so tightly they have become one.

This article will guide you through the unique habitat, secretive wildlife, and layered history of Muttersmoor. We will explore what makes this protected corner of the East Devon National Landscape so special, from the rare plants that carpet its acidic soil to the ghosts of the smugglers who gave the moor its name.

Muttersmoor is an extensive area of lowland dry heath, a precious habitat that has become increasingly scarce across the nation. It holds a commanding position, spread across an elevated plateau that offers panoramic views over the town of Sidmouth to the east and the beautiful Otter Valley to the west. Its ecological value is formally recognised; the moor is part of the Pebblebed Heaths National Nature Reserve and is protected within the wider East Devon National Landscape (formerly known as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty).

The land is owned by Clinton Devon Estates, a testament to a long history of private stewardship. In 1930, Lord Clinton formally made the moor accessible to the public, dedicating it for "air and exercise" and securing its role as a vital recreational and natural space for generations to come.

To walk on Muttersmoor is to walk through a landscape created by a long partnership between nature and humanity. Lowland heaths like this are known as "man-manipulated" or plagioclimax communities. This means they are not a final, stable ecosystem in the way an old-growth forest is. Instead, their open character is maintained only by continuous human or animal intervention—such as grazing—which prevents the natural progression to scrub and eventually dense woodland. This seemingly wild place is, in fact, a product of its long relationship with people.

The moor's character is defined by a geology that tells a story of deep time. Unlike the main Pebblebed Heaths, which lie on foundations laid down in ancient Triassic deserts, Muttersmoor sits atop Cretaceous Upper Greensand capped with Clay-with-flints. This unique position bridges the gap between those fiery red deserts and the later Mesozoic marine environments, creating highly acidic, nutrient-poor, and stony soils that set the stage for specialist plant life. This unique geology, with its stony, uneven ground, didn't just shape the plant life; it shaped human history, creating the rugged, hidden tracks that were a gift to the infamous Mutter smuggling gang.

The name itself is a clue to this rowdier chapter. It is derived from the family of the notorious merchant and smuggler Abraham Mutter who, during the 17th and 18th centuries, used the moor's inaccessible paths to transport contraband like wine and tobacco from the coast. But the human story goes back much further. The moor holds the believed site of a former Bronze Age stone circle known as "Seven Stones"—its standing stones sadly removed during the Victorian era—and later served a strategic purpose with military functions during World War II. This long history of human intervention continues today, though the methods have changed from ancient grazing and smugglers' footfalls to carefully managed conservation efforts.

A Mosaic of Hardy Heathers and Gorse

The classic dry heathland of Muttersmoor is a visual delight, a living tapestry woven from hardy plants perfectly adapted to the thin, acidic soils. For much of the year, the landscape is a vibrant mosaic of purple, yellow, and green.

The colourful display is created by a community of key plants, including:

• The three cornerstone heathers: The dominant species are Ling (Calluna vulgaris), the deep purple Bell Heather (Erica cinerea), and, in damper patches, the delicate Cross-leaved Heather (Erica tetralix).

• Thriving gorse species: A succession of blooms from European, western, and dwarf gorse ensures splashes of brilliant yellow throughout the seasons.

• Other common plants: Carpets of bracken and patches of bilberry add texture and provide food and shelter for wildlife.

Beyond the dominant species, the moor hosts botanical specialists. A careful eye might find the exquisite Heath Spotted-orchid (Dactylorhiza maculata) or, in wetter flushes, the insectivorous Round-leaved Sundew (Drosera rotundifolia), a tiny jewel adapted to the nutrient-poor conditions.

From Basking Adders to Chirring Nightjars

While the plants provide the scenery, the moor is alive with a host of secretive animal residents. With a little patience, visitors can be rewarded with remarkable wildlife encounters. On a warm summer day, you might spot a snake or lizard basking in the sun on an open path, soaking up the heat before disappearing back into the undergrowth.

The birdlife is particularly special, with several key species arriving for the summer. The most iconic is the Nightjar, a mysterious, long-winged bird. As dusk bleeds the colour from the heather, a strange, mechanical whirring, like a distant engine, begins to fill the air. This is the "chirr" of the Nightjar, a sound that carries across the heathland as it swoops through the air hunting for moths. The heaths are also a stronghold for the rare Dartford Warbler, a small bird that darts among the gorse bushes. Other welcome summer visitors that add their songs to the moorland soundscape include the stonechat and tree pipit.

The insect life is just as fascinating. The East Devon heaths are an important habitat for butterflies like the Silver-studded Blue and the Green Hairstreak. The Silver-studded Blue has a remarkable symbiotic relationship with black ants (Lasius niger). Its caterpillars produce a sugary secretion that the ants feed on; in return, the ants act as bodyguards, protecting the vulnerable caterpillars from predators.

Muttersmoor is far more than just a place for a beautiful walk with a view. It is a fragile, human-shaped ecosystem, a living museum that tells stories of geology, ancient rituals, and illicit trade. It is a sanctuary for rare wildlife and a testament to the enduring relationship between people and the land. Maintaining this special habitat requires continuous, dedicated effort, such as conservation grazing by traditional breeds like Dartmoor ponies that mimics ancient patterns of land use.

This work is carried out through a crucial partnership between Clinton Devon Estates, the RSPB, the National Trust, and the South West Coast Path National Trail. As they protect its legacy, they are also writing the moor’s next chapter. The visionary "Heaths to Sea" Landscape Recovery Project, led by Clinton Devon Estates, aims to reconnect the fragmented heaths with the coastal and riverine habitats of the Otter Valley, ensuring that this wild and beautiful moor will have new stories to tell for generations to come.